Showing posts with label Bearings. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bearings. Show all posts

4/7/12

Servicing Rv Trailer Bearings

Brakes - Servicing Rv Trailer Bearings

Hi friends. Today, I found out about Brakes - Servicing Rv Trailer Bearings. Which may be very helpful in my experience therefore you.

Do you know - Servicing Rv Trailer Bearings

Step by step instructions

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About Brakes

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Safely jacking up the trailer

Park the trailer on firm and level ground. Block the trailer tires on the opposite side securely so that no send or rearward movement is possible. Jack up the trailer following the manufacturers instructions. Secure the trailer on jack stands of adequate capacity front and rear.

Remove the wheel and hub

Undo the wheel nuts and remove the wheel Pry off the dust cap using a flat bladed screwdriver Straighten out the cotter pin that holds the bearing nut and remove it Remove the bearing nut and washer Gently pull the brake drum send while cupping the hub occasion with your hand to keep the front bearing from falling to the ground. The outer race stays in the drum, while the inner race and roller bearings come out as an assembled unit. Place the front bearing, bearing nut and the bearing washer in a clean container

Remove the grease seal and inner bearing

Place the brake drum face down so that the back of the drum is accessible Pry out the grease seal. This will be substituted in a additional step. Lift out the rear bearing and place it in the package with the rest of the parts Don't mix up the bearings if you are doing more that one wheel at a time - each bearing must mate with its former race (no prejudice intended). The bearings wear in by a distinct whole and need to be matched with their respective counterparts.

Clean and inspect the bearings and races

Thoroughly clean the bearings and other parts in a solvent (not gasoline!) until all the old grease is removed. Set the aside to dry thoroughly or blow dry with compressed air. Don't use the air pressure to spin the bearing, as damage could ensue to the bearing or to your person! Clean the hub and spindle. Inspect the bearing races for heat discoloration, pitting, scoring and any unevenness. Inspect the bearing for damage as above. Any out of round rollers, cracked roller cages and rough running will indicate transfer is required. The bearing and both inner and outer races must be substituted as a set. Inspect the brake drum for pitting and immoderate wear especially if the brake shoes were allowed to wear down to bare metal. Inspect the brake magnet outside for immoderate or uneven wear. If the brake drum and magnet have been saturated with grease from a failed seal, replace the shoes and magnet, and have the drum turned or machined to renew the surfaces.

Hand packing the bearings

Place a walnut sized gob of wheel bearing grease in one palm. Grasp the bearing with the other hand so that the wider end is facing the grease. What you want to do is force the grease into the gap between the inner race and the outer cage so that it squeezes up straight through the rollers and out the top. Press the bearing down into the grease in a rocking appeal and continue until the grease oozes up. Rotate the bearing 1/4 turn, at a time, and continue until the bearing is thoroughly filled with grease. Or use an uncostly bearing packer - there are some that you use with a grease gun filled with wheel bearing grease and other types that you drop the bearing into and apply hand or foot pressure to force the grease straight through the bearing

Reassembly

Put some grease into the interior of the hub with your fingers. A walnut sized whole is sufficient. Spread it around the circumference of the hub. Place the inner packed bearing into its place in the hub. Place a new seal on the hub and tap it into place with a hammer until it seats fully. Be sure to wipe off any grease that finds its way onto the outer flat outside of seal. Replace the drum onto the axle spindle, insert the outer bearing, thrust washer and axle nut.

Preload the bearing

Tighten the axle nut by hand until it is tight. Tighten someone else 1/4 turn with tongs or wrench. Spin the drum any times to distribute the grease evenly in the bearings. Back off the nut with the tongs or wrench, until loose and then re-tighten finger tight. Insert a new cotter pin to lock the nut in place and bend it over the spindle. Re-install the dust cap, wheel and tire, and hubcap. Now is a very good time to adjust the brakes. See my record Adjusting Rv Brakes for more info. Wash hands vigorously for 15 minutes!

Replacing a bearing The bearing must be substituted with a perfect new bearing with the inner and outer races.

The inner races are pressed into place in the hub and must be driven out. Use a brass punch to catch the edge of the race by passing it straight through the inverted hub. A few good whacks with a hammer should drive out the old race. Place the new race into position and tap it in with the hammer and punch. Take care not to mar the outside of the race. Pack, reassemble and preload the bearing as above.

I hope you receive new knowledge about Brakes. Where you possibly can put to utilization in your everyday life. And above all, your reaction is Brakes. Hydraulic Press Brakes.

1/7/12

How To Replace Front Wheel Bearings - You Can Do That

Recently the right front wheel bearing went bad on my 2002 Mazda 626. Apparently my oldest daughter hit a large pot hole bending the wheel and damaging the wheel bearing. I noticed a slight hum in the front end with a slight shutter as well, I thought that the tires needed to be balances and rotated, so I took it into the shop to be checked out. Well to my surprise I was told the bad news and what was worse was the amount they wanted to charge - over 0 to fix bearing and to replace the wheel. That is when I decided to do it myself.

Below I will help you by listing the tools you will need and steps on how to get it done.

Things you will need:

Large adjustable wrench

Channelocks

Bearing race driver tool

Various size punches

Socket and ratchet set

Assorted wrenches

A rags or two

New wheel bearings

Wheel bearing grease

New cotter pin

New grease seals

Wheel blocks

Safety glasses

A jack and a pair of jack stands

Even if the bearings are not making a noise it is always a good idea to have them inspected every 30,000 miles. I have it done when my breaks are replaced.

Okay let's get started.

Get all of your tools and supplies together before you begin and allow plenty of time to do the job.

Please take note that these are general instructions and consult the appropriate repair manual for your vehicle.

Always think safety first whenever you're working around machinery. Wear safety classes to protect your eyes and beware of hot objects, sharp items and hazardous materials. It is very, very important to never work on a car that is only supported by a jack, always place a sturdy foundation under the vehicle to prevent it from falling on you.

From this point on cleanliness is important. You do not want any dirt, sand or metal chips inside the hub.

1. Remove your disc brake calipers and caliper bridge to remove the rotor.

2. Remove the bearing cap. This is a press fit and to remove it grab it with your channelocks and work it back and forth until it pops off. Be careful not to crush it.

3. Once the cap is off you will see a cotter pin, remove the cotter pin and remove the retainer ring. If your vehicle has a castellated nut, you will not have a retaining ring.

4. Using your channelocks or adjustable wrench, remove the nut from the spindle.

5. Next remove the outer wheel bearing and washer.

6. Slide the rotor or drum off the spindle.

7. Remove the grease seal and take out the inner wheel bearing.

8. Wipe all the old grease from inside the hub.

9. Remove the bearing races from the hub.

10. Take a punch with a flat narrow tip and place it on the back of the race.

11. Tap the race out, alternating from side to side so it comes out evenly and doesn't get cocked in the hub.

12. Once it's out, flip the rotor or drum over and do the same for the other race.

13. Clean the inside of the hub with some rags.

14. Make sure the spindle is clean as well.

That's all there is to it. Like I mentioned earlier take your time and you will not get frustrated, good luck with your project.

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3/1/11

advice to Xk8 and Xkr Owners - Replacing Worn Front Wheel Bearings

Changing front wheel bearing parts on many cars can be a fairly right forward job but changing the bearing parts on an Xk8 and Xkr can be attractive and a extra tool will be required to do the job. There is nothing complicated about the Xk8 wheel bearing as such as they are a accepted one piece bearing together with 2 circlips that withhold the bearing in the housing.

The Xk8 and Xkr bearings are not noted for their longevity with car mileages between 30000 and 40000 miles typically requiring front wheel bearing parts changes. Indicative signs of worn wheel bearings are the constant drone of the bearings which get worse if you turn the steering wheel and commonly the rough feel when driving the car. At the first signs of a worn wheel bearing, they should be changed as soon as possible to avoid supplementary work (and costs) in the future.

Hydraulic Press Brakes

One of the first problems to be encountered is the extraction of the bottom ball joint which will be tight and often has to be cut off. extraction of the calliper and disc is usually straightforward. However, extraction of the Abs rotor nut is required and this requires a extra tool (rotor nut socket) to undo it without causing high-priced damage. The rotor nut has a series of castellations on it for the wheel speed sensor to pick up. The sensor has to be removed which is also high-priced if damaged.

With the hub off the car and suitably retained in a vice, the next challenge is to take off the rotor nut which requires primary force requiring a very large torsion bar lever to move it. Once the nut is undone, two extra circlips need to be removed and then the bearing has to be pressed out of it's housing. A hydraulic press is best for this and ideally a cradle to gather it. Best use you local auto engineer / garage for help here.

Refitting is the reverse of the above, but hopefully now you will have a much quieter Xk8 / Xkr and extensive improved driving feel.

advice to Xk8 and Xkr Owners - Replacing Worn Front Wheel Bearings

Hydraulic Press Brakes