Servicing Rv Trailer Bearings

Brakes - Servicing Rv Trailer Bearings

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Step by step instructions

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Safely jacking up the trailer

Park the trailer on firm and level ground. Block the trailer tires on the opposite side securely so that no send or rearward movement is possible. Jack up the trailer following the manufacturers instructions. Secure the trailer on jack stands of adequate capacity front and rear.

Remove the wheel and hub

Undo the wheel nuts and remove the wheel Pry off the dust cap using a flat bladed screwdriver Straighten out the cotter pin that holds the bearing nut and remove it Remove the bearing nut and washer Gently pull the brake drum send while cupping the hub occasion with your hand to keep the front bearing from falling to the ground. The outer race stays in the drum, while the inner race and roller bearings come out as an assembled unit. Place the front bearing, bearing nut and the bearing washer in a clean container

Remove the grease seal and inner bearing

Place the brake drum face down so that the back of the drum is accessible Pry out the grease seal. This will be substituted in a additional step. Lift out the rear bearing and place it in the package with the rest of the parts Don't mix up the bearings if you are doing more that one wheel at a time - each bearing must mate with its former race (no prejudice intended). The bearings wear in by a distinct whole and need to be matched with their respective counterparts.

Clean and inspect the bearings and races

Thoroughly clean the bearings and other parts in a solvent (not gasoline!) until all the old grease is removed. Set the aside to dry thoroughly or blow dry with compressed air. Don't use the air pressure to spin the bearing, as damage could ensue to the bearing or to your person! Clean the hub and spindle. Inspect the bearing races for heat discoloration, pitting, scoring and any unevenness. Inspect the bearing for damage as above. Any out of round rollers, cracked roller cages and rough running will indicate transfer is required. The bearing and both inner and outer races must be substituted as a set. Inspect the brake drum for pitting and immoderate wear especially if the brake shoes were allowed to wear down to bare metal. Inspect the brake magnet outside for immoderate or uneven wear. If the brake drum and magnet have been saturated with grease from a failed seal, replace the shoes and magnet, and have the drum turned or machined to renew the surfaces.

Hand packing the bearings

Place a walnut sized gob of wheel bearing grease in one palm. Grasp the bearing with the other hand so that the wider end is facing the grease. What you want to do is force the grease into the gap between the inner race and the outer cage so that it squeezes up straight through the rollers and out the top. Press the bearing down into the grease in a rocking appeal and continue until the grease oozes up. Rotate the bearing 1/4 turn, at a time, and continue until the bearing is thoroughly filled with grease. Or use an uncostly bearing packer - there are some that you use with a grease gun filled with wheel bearing grease and other types that you drop the bearing into and apply hand or foot pressure to force the grease straight through the bearing

Reassembly

Put some grease into the interior of the hub with your fingers. A walnut sized whole is sufficient. Spread it around the circumference of the hub. Place the inner packed bearing into its place in the hub. Place a new seal on the hub and tap it into place with a hammer until it seats fully. Be sure to wipe off any grease that finds its way onto the outer flat outside of seal. Replace the drum onto the axle spindle, insert the outer bearing, thrust washer and axle nut.

Preload the bearing

Tighten the axle nut by hand until it is tight. Tighten someone else 1/4 turn with tongs or wrench. Spin the drum any times to distribute the grease evenly in the bearings. Back off the nut with the tongs or wrench, until loose and then re-tighten finger tight. Insert a new cotter pin to lock the nut in place and bend it over the spindle. Re-install the dust cap, wheel and tire, and hubcap. Now is a very good time to adjust the brakes. See my record Adjusting Rv Brakes for more info. Wash hands vigorously for 15 minutes!

Replacing a bearing The bearing must be substituted with a perfect new bearing with the inner and outer races.

The inner races are pressed into place in the hub and must be driven out. Use a brass punch to catch the edge of the race by passing it straight through the inverted hub. A few good whacks with a hammer should drive out the old race. Place the new race into position and tap it in with the hammer and punch. Take care not to mar the outside of the race. Pack, reassemble and preload the bearing as above.

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Trailer Sway 101

Brakes - Trailer Sway 101

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Yaw, more generally known as sway in the Rv industry, is a bad word for trailer owners. The definition of yaw or sway is a side-to-side movement. Nothing will ruin the way you feel about camping faster than the first time you touch trailer sway.

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You have tent camped for years and now you decree it's time to move up to a pop-up. You go to your local dealership and find a pop-up with the exquisite floor plan for you and your family. The sales man knows that it will be close to the maximum weight that your vehicle can tow. He literally needs a sale because things have been slow. Rather than risk losing the sale he decides not to expound the added cost of the allowable hitch work to safely tow your new trailer.

You're all packed up for a weekend getaway. You made all of your pre-trip checks and you're ready to go. You load the most precious cargo you have, your family, into your tow vehicle and head out on a new venture. All things is fine when you leave the house. You take the on ramp to the interstate. You're cruising at the speed limit enjoying the music on the radio. Suddenly out of nowhere a transfer truck going twenty miles over the speed limit is passing you as if you're sitting still. The pop-up is pulled into the draft created by the truck. In an effort to strict this totally unexpected event you over steer and the trailer begins to go the opposite direction. Not literally sure what to do you hit the brakes and turn the steering wheel to the left, then to the right. Now, that one-ton trailer behind your sport utility vehicle is veering sharply from side to side and begins to sway what wee control you have over the vehicle. The results are catastrophic.

Ok, since this is just an article, let's start over and fix this before you even comprehend there is a possible problem. You purchased your pop-up from a reputable local Rv dealership. At the risk of losing the sale your sales man explains that you will want some specialized hitch work to pull your new trailer safely. You are a bit skeptical, feeling like they just want more of your money. Besides, your father never needed any of this stuff. He just hooked the trailer unto the ball and went.

You decree to give the sales man the benefit of doubt and listen for a minute. He shows you in his book that your tow vehicle is rated to tow a maximum of 3,500 pounds. Then he explains what you must factor in to that tow rating. It includes the weight of your new camper, any after store accessories, like the roof mounted air conditioner and battery the dealership is going to install, all of the cargo and personal belongings that you load in the trailer and in the tow vehicle, and the weight of the passengers in the vehicle. Now all of the sudden the sales man has your undivided attention. You had no idea that all of this had to be considered.

He shows you the weight label on your new trailer. The unloaded vehicle weight (Uvw) is 2,100 pounds. The air conditioner weighs 100 pounds and the deep cycle battery weighs 50 pounds. To be safe he estimates that you will carry about 300 pounds of cargo, and then adds an additional one 300 pounds for your wife and two children. You are amazed how fast things add up.

Now you have 2,850 pounds instead of the 2100 pounds that you view it was. It isn't over yet. Your sales man starts to expound that every state has distinct requirements on how much a trailer can weigh before it requires trailer brakes. In your state the weight is 3,000 lbs., but your dealership has brakes installed on any trailer they order that weighs over 2,000 pounds. He explains that even though your vehicle is rated to tow 3,500 pounds the brakes on the vehicle were designed to safely stop the vehicles weight, not an additional ton and a half being pulled behind it.

He takes you to the parts department and shows you a brake controller and explains that this is what activates the trailer brakes and the dealership will install it when they do the wiring for the trailer lights. You like the features that he explained about the brake controller. The fact that you can manually adjust the amount of braking action so that when you hit the brake pedal the tow vehicle and the trailer work together to stop the weight in a inexpensive amount of time. What you literally like is the part he explained about the hand-operated override lever that activates the trailer brakes without using the vehicle brakes.

He said if you're on a steep grade and you don't want to prematurely wear out the vehicle brakes you gradually slide the lever and the trailer brakes will slow you down. But what literally sold you on it was when he explained that if the trailer starts to sway you could gradually move the lever, activating the trailer brakes, to help straighten the trailer out. He went on to expound that trailer sway is one of the biggest possible problems that you can encounter while towing a trailer. He points out some of the factors that lead to trailer sway.

o First and prominent poor trailer institute contributes to trailer sway. When there is too much weight behind the trailers axles causing the tongue weight to be less than 10% of the trailers weight it has a natural tendency to sway.

o Incorrect tire inflation

o Improper weight distribution hitch adjustments

o No sway control on the trailer

o Crosswinds

o A transfer truck passing from the rear of the trailer

o Descending inclines

o Towing speeds

o Tow vehicle not properly matched for the trailer

o Improper loading, overloading and poor weight distribution

He took the time to expound that for the trailer to pull properly the maker recommends that the tongue weight resting on the ball mount should be 10 to 15% of the total trailer weight. He said if it is more than 15% they have what is called a weight distribution hitch that takes the additional tongue weight and distributes it to the axles on the tow vehicle and the trailer where it should be, and if it is less than 10% when you load your cargo you distribute it to add some additional weight on the tongue. He looked up the pop-up you were buying in the brochure and the tongue weight was 305 pounds. With the air conditioner installed and your cargo loaded you would be between the 10 to 15% range. He explained that a weight distribution hitch was more generally used with heavier trailers and in some cases with pop-ups depending on the tow vehicle, but in this case it would not be required.

The next thing he asked was if your vehicle had a receiver. You reply, do you mean a hitch? He explains that the part that is bolted to the vehicle is called a receiver, and he shows you a chart that has several distinct classes of receivers depending on the amount of weight you will be towing. The class Ii receiver was rated for 3,500 lb. Gross trailer weight and 300 lb. Max tongue weight. For a small inequity in price he recommended a class Iii receiver rated for 5,000 lb. Gross trailer weight and 500 lb. Max tongue weight since your trailers tongue weight exceeded 300 lbs.

With that done he said let me show you the one component that our dealership strongly recommends to anyone purchasing a pop-up. He walked over and picked up a part from the shelf. This is called a disagreement sway control. We mount one end of it to the ball mount and the other end to the tongue on the camper. You adjust the amount of disagreement by turning the lever clockwise for more disagreement and counter clockwise for less friction. He explained that you turn it in 1/8" increments until you get it adjusted where you feel comfortable. This will not totally eliminate sway, but once the soldiery of sway are in appeal it will dampen the sway and help you control it when you're towing your camper.

Well, he said, that about does it. For less than 10% of the price of the pop-up you can get all of the hitch work done and ensure that your family is safe when you go on a trip. At this point you're convinced that the sales man has your best interest in mind and was not just trying to make more money.

You're all packed up for the first weekend getaway with your new pop-up. You make all of the pre-trip checks that the dealership explained to you and you're ready to go. You load the most precious cargo you have, your family, into your vehicle and head out on a new venture. You take the on ramp to the interstate. You're cruising at the speed limit enjoying the music on the radio. Suddenly out of nowhere a transfer truck going twenty miles over the speed limit passes you as if I you're sitting still. You feel a wee movement behind you. It was just sufficient to remind you that you're pulling the pop-up. You look at you're watch and tell the family that you should be at the campground in a consolidate of hours.

Knowing how to react when a trailer begins to sway can be the inequity between your protection and disaster.

Happy Camping,

Mark

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of Rv study 101

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How to Adjust Rv Trailer Brakes

Brakes - How to Adjust Rv Trailer Brakes

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Trailer brakes should be adjusted at least once a year, more often depending on the miles traveled, the severity of the downhill grades, and the estimate of stop and go traffic that is encountered.This is a chore that most people with median mechanical skills should be able to handle.

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You will need a brake adjusting tool, available at most tool contribute stores, a jack capable of safely lifting the trailer, and a jack stand to hold the trailer in the jacked position.The following steps are a guide to properly adjusting your trailer brakes. What this entails is the adjustment of the star wheel which in turn sets the brake shoe to brake drum clearance. This adjustment is important - as the brake shoes wear down, the clearance increases. The actuating mechanism must travel further to effectively apply the brakes and a point can be reached where the mechanism is no longer able to so.

Adjusting Rv Trailer Brakes

Park the trailer on firm and level ground.

Block the trailer tires on the opposite side securely so that no transmit or rearward movement is possible.

Jack up the trailer following the manufacturers instructions.

Secure the trailer on jack stands of enough capacity front and rear.

At the back of the wheel, on the brake backing plate, there is a small rubber plug near the lowest of the backing plate. Pry out this plug to give way to the star wheel adjuster.

Some trailers have a drop axle suspension ideas and the axle covers most of this adjusting hole manufacture it difficult to use the brake tool. Patience will win out in the end if you keep at it.

Insert the brake adjuster tool and maneuver it so that the tool engages with the teeth in the star wheel. The star wheel looks like a gear with exposed teeth on the perimeter. On most trailers you would pull down on the tool cope which levers on the lowest of the hole and turns the star wheel up (as you are finding at it from the back of the wheel. Just to make it more difficult, the star wheel is placed well inside and some maneuvering is required - a flashlight will help to locate the star wheel.

Turn the adjuster until the brake locks up, i.e. You can no longer rotate the wheel by hand. This centers the brake shoes on the brake drum so that they are in the correct position.

Now back off the star wheel 8 to 10 clicks or as specified by the manufacturer. The wheel should spin freely with no apparent drag to slow it down. A petite scraping noise is normal as the wheel turns.

Repeat this procedure for all the wheels.

Congratulations, you have successfully adjusted your own trailer brakes ... That wasn't so bad, was it?

Click here to get your free Rv Maintenance report

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Trailer Tire Guide-Choose Quality Trailer Tires

Hydraulic Brakes - Trailer Tire Guide-Choose Quality Trailer Tires

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Do you know - Trailer Tire Guide-Choose Quality Trailer Tires

If you own a baby baiter and you frequently use it for traveling, again it is best that you accept that appropriate baiter bivouac annoy to ensure that your trips are safe and hassle-free. baiter bivouac tires are not your accustomed annoy because they can run on both baptize and ground, so the annoy has to be fabricated from aerial cast and abiding materials.

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Tips

A bivouac annoy adviser to booty agenda of is to accept the blueprint of the bivouac tire. bivouac annoy architecture varies according to the cast and the manufacturer. bivouac tires should accept to annealed ancillary bank to advance accidental swaying. Always attending at the aggrandizement burden of the tires as well. Always attending at the best aggrandizement burden adumbrated forth the annoyancillary so you will aloof apperceive how abundant annoy burden you can put.

Also, accomplish abiding to advance your tire's lug torque on the rims. This will ensure that your will run calmly and annoy all basics and bolts are tightly anchored.

Kinds

Here's addition bivouac annoy guides: apperceive the kinds of bivouac tire. There are mainly two kinds of bivouac tire. These are:

Radial baiter bivouac tires-these are actual abiding with bigger traction, in greater strength, stability, and bigger beneath rolling resistance. Most models appear with two animated bond belts added two plies of polyester adorable fabricated cords for added stability and backbone.

Non-radial tires-bivouac baiter advised for acute active altitude and locations. They can ply throughall kinds of terrain, including rocks, snow, mud, sand, gravel, or dirt. But be able for a ride as these tires aflutter accept actual little shock absorption.

Remember

When affairs bivouac tire, analysis for the following:

Tire bore-for a bivouac annoy that bore the better because these accomplish the atomic RPM, authoritative the annoy abiding and aggressive Milan damage, which accomplish these tires break continued abundant to aftermost you a continued time.

Ply-go for baiter bivouac tires that accept a cogent cardinal of plys because they are added abiding brought by stronger ancillary walls.

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Brake Laws - Motorhome and travel Trailer

Brakes - Brake Laws - Motorhome and travel Trailer

What up. Today, I discovered Brakes - Brake Laws - Motorhome and travel Trailer. Which is very helpful in my opinion and you.

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Most U.S. States and Canadian Provinces have their own laws on the requirement for brakes on a towed trailer. The word trailer also applies to a car being towed behind a motor home. These laws are regularly based on the estimate of weight being towed. One question with this is that it might be legal to tow a 2,000 pound trailer with no brakes in the state where you live, but as soon as you cross the state line of a bordering state it is illegal to tow the same trailer without brakes. Add to this your assurance firm may not cover you in the event of an crisis enthralling a trailer with no braking system. Again, the most foremost hypothesize is for your protection and the protection of others.

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About Brakes

The brakes on a tow car or motor home are designed by the car maker to stop the weight of that singular vehicle, not the supplementary weight being towed behind it. This supplementary weight adds a grand growth to the length required to stop safely.

Travel trailers and 5th wheels come equipped with electric brakes and Rv dealers educate the Rv buyer on the requirements for adding an electronic brake control to the tow vehicle. Some pop-ups are ordered with brakes and some without. Again, this is often times based on the braking laws for the state you live in. Keep in mind that once you cross a state line it could become illegal. My advice is if you're going to buy a pop-up get one that has brakes.

The real culprit for disregarding braking laws is a motor home towing a car behind it. Most people assume that because of the size of the motor home there is no need for a supplemental brake law on the towed car and sometimes Rv dealers fail to quote the requirement for a supplemental braking system.

I for one was guilty of towing a car without a braking law for quite some time. A close call, while driving through a major city while rush hour, suddenly educated me on how foremost it is. Other thing that surprises people is how much the car they're towing easily weighs. Take your towed car to a set of scales and have it weighed. Make sure it has everything in it that will be in it when you are towing it. After you weigh it double check to make sure the receiver on the motor home is rated to tow that estimate of weight and that you aren't exceeding any of the motor home weight ratings like the Gross Combined Weight Rating (Gcwr). The Gcwr is the maximum permissible weight of the fully loaded motor home and the fully loaded towed car combined. Most Rv chassis manufacturers base their Gcwr on the assumption that a supplemental brake law is being used.

Regardless of the brake law that best suits your individual needs the foremost thing is that you have one. There are many reasons to have a braking law on your towed vehicle.

1) It's the law
2) It can void your car warranty
3) It can void your insurance
4) It will sell out wear and tear on Rv brakes and other components
5) Liability

But, most importantly it Safely reduces the stopping length and helps to protect you, your loved ones and the protection of others.

Happy Camping!

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of Rv schooling 101

I hope you have new knowledge about Brakes. Where you can offer use within your day-to-day life. And above all, your reaction is Brakes. Read more.. Brake Laws - Motorhome and travel Trailer.

How to Adjust Rv Trailer Brakes

Brakes - How to Adjust Rv Trailer Brakes

Hi friends. Now, I learned all about Brakes - How to Adjust Rv Trailer Brakes. Which is very helpful to me therefore you.

Do you know - How to Adjust Rv Trailer Brakes

Trailer brakes should be adjusted at least once a year, more often depending on the miles traveled, the severity of the downhill grades, and the number of stop and go traffic that is encountered.This is a chore that most citizen with mean mechanical skills should be able to handle.

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About Brakes

You will need a brake adjusting tool, available at most tool furnish stores, a jack capable of safely lifting the trailer, and a jack stand to hold the trailer in the jacked position.The following steps are a guide to properly adjusting your trailer brakes. What this entails is the adjustment of the star wheel which in turn sets the brake shoe to brake drum clearance. This adjustment is foremost - as the brake shoes wear down, the clearance increases. The actuating mechanism must trip added to effectively apply the brakes and a point can be reached where the mechanism is no longer able to so.

Adjusting Rv Trailer Brakes

Park the trailer on firm and level ground.

Block the trailer tires on the opposite side securely so that no forward or rearward movement is possible.

Jack up the trailer following the manufacturers instructions.

Secure the trailer on jack stands of sufficient capacity front and rear.

At the back of the wheel, on the brake backing plate, there is a small rubber plug near the lowest of the backing plate. Pry out this plug to give entrance to the star wheel adjuster.

Some trailers have a drop axle suspension ideas and the axle covers most of this adjusting hole making it difficult to use the brake tool. Patience will win out in the end if you keep at it.

Insert the brake adjuster tool and maneuver it so that the tool engages with the teeth in the star wheel. The star wheel looks like a gear with exposed teeth on the perimeter. On most trailers you would pull down on the tool cope which levers on the lowest of the hole and turns the star wheel up (as you are finding at it from the back of the wheel. Just to make it more difficult, the star wheel is placed well inside and some maneuvering is required - a flashlight will help to locate the star wheel.

Turn the adjuster until the brake locks up, i.e. You can no longer rotate the wheel by hand. This centers the brake shoes on the brake drum so that they are in the spoton position.

Now back off the star wheel 8 to 10 clicks or as specified by the manufacturer. The wheel should spin freely with no apparent drag to slow it down. A minuscule scraping noise is normal as the wheel turns.

Repeat this procedure for all the wheels.

Congratulations, you have successfully adjusted your own trailer brakes ... That wasn't so bad, was it?

Click here to get your free Rv Maintenance report

I hope you receive new knowledge about Brakes. Where you can offer use in your evryday life. And just remember, your reaction is Brakes. Read more.. How to Adjust Rv Trailer Brakes.

Brake Controllers - spin of Trailer Brake Controllers

Brakes - Brake Controllers - spin of Trailer Brake Controllers

Hello sir. Yesterday, I found out about Brakes - Brake Controllers - spin of Trailer Brake Controllers. Which could be very helpful for me therefore you.

Do you know - Brake Controllers - spin of Trailer Brake Controllers

A brake controller supplies power from a vehicle to a trailer's electric brakes. There are two types of brake controllers; Time Delay Activated and Inertia Activated.

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About Brakes

Even though each type of controller has a exact function and purpose, controllers all share the following properties:

They are wired the same way.

The driver can adjust how much braking power is applied.

Each type has a hand-operated override switch that allows the driver to apply the brakes.

Time Delay Brake Controllers

Time Delay controllers are also known as solid state controllers. They are activated when the brake pedal in the tow vehicle is depressed. Once activated the controllers apply voltage to the trailer's brakes using a Time Delay Circuit.

Solid state controllers are commonly more cheap than Inertia Activated controllers. In addition, they can be mounted just about in any place and do not take up a great deal of space. A fairly base issue with the time activated controller is pulsing brakes when controls are set too aggressively. Gain problems can be rectified with a pulse preventer to cut off the controller from the vehicle electrical system.

Inertia Activated Brake Controllers

Inertia Activated controllers are also called Pendulum Style controllers. A pendulum controller senses the slowing appeal of the vehicle and applies increased voltage to the brakes as the vehicle slows. A pendulum style controller will slow the trailer at the same rate the vehicle slows down. When the Inertia activated control is properly adjusted, the trailer will retard at the same speed as the towing vehicle. A effect of this is increased braking efficiency and reduced wear on the brakes.

The pendulum style controllers tend to be larger than solid state controllers and have to be mounted in a level position (although there are some exceptions). They are also normally more expensive.

Drivers often want to know how much brake power they are applying while a stop or either the trailer brakes are even functioning at all. A potential brake controller will have some type of monitor built in, which should be easily viewable from the driver's seat.

These monitors make use of a digital display screen to show the voltage delivery going from the brake controller to the trailer's brakes. The monitor reflects the whole of pressure and power you are applying to the brakes. Brake controller monitors basically do what you would expect... They give you data about all of the aspects of the brake controller so that you can be sure all will work as you expect when you need to stop.

Regardless of the controller you choose, be aware of the base features they share. By doing some homework you will ensure that you are buying a potential controller.

I hope you get new knowledge about Brakes. Where you may put to used in your daily life. And just remember, your reaction is Brakes. Read more.. Brake Controllers - spin of Trailer Brake Controllers.

Trailer Weights

Brakes - Trailer Weights

What up. Now, I discovered Brakes - Trailer Weights. Which may be very helpful to me and you.

Do you know - Trailer Weights

There has all the time been obscuring when it comes to trailer weights. I can't begin to tell you how many times I have seen citizen read the manufacturers weight label on the exterior of the trailer or fifth wheel and assume that they can't tow it. The data plate on the exterior gives you the Gross car Weight Rating (Gvwr). This is not the actual weight of the trailer; it is the maximum number of weight that the trailers axles, brakes, tires and other components can support. The trailer might weigh 5,000 pounds, but the Gvwr may be 7,000 pounds. This means that you could add 2,000 pounds of weight to the trailer before you reach the Gvwr. You need to reconsider how much weight you will add to the trailer when you are calculating this number. You never want to tow a trailer that exceeds the Gvwr. The components on the trailer are not designed to exceed the Gvwr and it can be highly dangerous, or fatal.

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About Brakes

Any maker that is a member of the Recreation car business connection (Rvia) is required to have a weight rating label inside the trailer that will give you more weight information. Look for it on the back of a cabinet or closet door. It will contribute information on the Gross car Weight Rating (Gvwr), the Unloaded car Weight (Uvw) or Dry Weight (Dw), which it is generally referred to, the weight of the fresh water tank and Lp gas when full, and the Cargo Carrying Capacity (Ccc) for the trailer.

The Uvw is the actual weight of the trailer as manufactured at the factory. You also want to find out if this weight includes options on the trailer. When a dealer orders a trailer they list the options they want on it. These options include, but are not little to, the roof air conditioner, awnings, stabilizer jacks, and a spare tire. You can see how fast weight can add up on the trailer.

Be true when you look at the weights in the manufacturers brochures. In most cases these weights are for the base model trailer without options, and depending on what they reconsider to be options the weight can convert drastically. It is not uncommon to see a brochure weight of 5,000 pounds, but the actual weight of the trailer is 5,700 pounds or more. 700 pounds can make a big unlikeness when your tow car is on the border of its maximum tow rating.

Happy Camping,

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of Rv study 101

I hope you receive new knowledge about Brakes. Where you'll be able to offer use within your daily life. And above all, your reaction is Brakes. Read more.. Trailer Weights.

Trailer Sway 101

Brakes - Trailer Sway 101

Hello everybody. Now, I learned about Brakes - Trailer Sway 101. Which may be very helpful to me therefore you.

Do you know - Trailer Sway 101

Yaw, more commonly known as sway in the Rv industry, is a bad word for trailer owners. The definition of yaw or sway is a side-to-side movement. Nothing will ruin the way you feel about camping faster than the first time you feel trailer sway.

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About Brakes

You have tent camped for years and now you decide it's time to move up to a pop-up. You go to your local dealership and find a pop-up with the perfect floor plan for you and your family. The sales someone knows that it will be close to the maximum weight that your car can tow. He easily needs a sale because things have been slow. Rather than risk losing the sale he decides not to explain the added expense of the allowable hitch work to safely tow your new trailer.

You're all packed up for a weekend getaway. You made all of your pre-trip checks and you're ready to go. You load the most precious cargo you have, your family, into your tow car and head out on a new venture. all is fine when you leave the house. You take the on ramp to the interstate. You're cruising at the speed limit enjoying the music on the radio. Suddenly out of nowhere a exchange truck going twenty miles over the speed limit is passing you as if you're sitting still. The pop-up is pulled into the draft created by the truck. In an attempt to correct this totally unexpected event you over steer and the trailer begins to go the opposite direction. Not easily sure what to do you hit the brakes and turn the steering wheel to the left, then to the right. Now, that one-ton trailer behind your sport utility car is veering sharply from side to side and begins to influence what small operate you have over the vehicle. The results are catastrophic.

Ok, since this is just an article, let's start over and fix this before you even comprehend there is a inherent problem. You purchased your pop-up from a reputable local Rv dealership. At the risk of losing the sale your sales someone explains that you will wish some specialized hitch work to pull your new trailer safely. You are a bit skeptical, feeling like they just want more of your money. Besides, your father never needed any of this stuff. He just hooked the trailer unto the ball and went.

You decide to give the sales someone the advantage of doubt and listen for a minute. He shows you in his book that your tow car is rated to tow a maximum of 3,500 pounds. Then he explains what you must factor in to that tow rating. It includes the weight of your new camper, any after market accessories, like the roof mounted air conditioner and battery the dealership is going to install, all of the cargo and personal belongings that you load in the trailer and in the tow vehicle, and the weight of the passengers in the vehicle. Now all of the sudden the sales someone has your undivided attention. You had no idea that all of this had to be considered.

He shows you the weight label on your new trailer. The unloaded car weight (Uvw) is 2,100 pounds. The air conditioner weighs 100 pounds and the deep cycle battery weighs 50 pounds. To be safe he estimates that you will carry about 300 pounds of cargo, and then adds someone else 300 pounds for your wife and two children. You are amazed how fast things add up.

Now you have 2,850 pounds instead of the 2100 pounds that you plan it was. It isn't over yet. Your sales someone starts to explain that every state has distinct requirements on how much a trailer can weigh before it requires trailer brakes. In your state the weight is 3,000 lbs., but your dealership has brakes installed on any trailer they order that weighs over 2,000 pounds. He explains that even though your car is rated to tow 3,500 pounds the brakes on the car were designed to safely stop the vehicles weight, not an additional ton and a half being pulled behind it.

He takes you to the parts division and shows you a brake controller and explains that this is what activates the trailer brakes and the dealership will setup it when they do the wiring for the trailer lights. You like the features that he explained about the brake controller. The fact that you can manually adjust the estimate of braking action so that when you hit the brake pedal the tow car and the trailer work together to stop the weight in a reasonable estimate of time. What you easily like is the part he explained about the manual override lever that activates the trailer brakes without using the car brakes.

He said if you're on a steep grade and you don't want to prematurely wear out the car brakes you gently slide the lever and the trailer brakes will slow you down. But what easily sold you on it was when he explained that if the trailer starts to sway you could gently move the lever, activating the trailer brakes, to help straighten the trailer out. He went on to explain that trailer sway is one of the biggest inherent problems that you can encounter while towing a trailer. He points out some of the factors that conduce to trailer sway.

o First and prominent poor trailer compose contributes to trailer sway. When there is too much weight behind the trailers axles causing the tongue weight to be less than 10% of the trailers weight it has a natural tendency to sway.

o Incorrect tire inflation

o Improper weight distribution hitch adjustments

o No sway operate on the trailer

o Crosswinds

o A exchange truck passing from the rear of the trailer

o Descending inclines

o Towing speeds

o Tow car not properly matched for the trailer

o Improper loading, overloading and poor weight distribution

He took the time to explain that for the trailer to pull properly the builder recommends that the tongue weight resting on the ball mount should be 10 to 15% of the total trailer weight. He said if it is more than 15% they have what is called a weight distribution hitch that takes the additional tongue weight and distributes it to the axles on the tow car and the trailer where it should be, and if it is less than 10% when you load your cargo you distribute it to add some additional weight on the tongue. He looked up the pop-up you were buying in the brochure and the tongue weight was 305 pounds. With the air conditioner installed and your cargo loaded you would be in the middle of the 10 to 15% range. He explained that a weight distribution hitch was more commonly used with heavier trailers and in some cases with pop-ups depending on the tow vehicle, but in this case it would not be required.

The next thing he asked was if your car had a receiver. You reply, do you mean a hitch? He explains that the part that is bolted to the car is called a receiver, and he shows you a chart that has some distinct classes of receivers depending on the estimate of weight you will be towing. The class Ii receiver was rated for 3,500 lb. Gross trailer weight and 300 lb. Max tongue weight. For a small contrast in price he recommended a class Iii receiver rated for 5,000 lb. Gross trailer weight and 500 lb. Max tongue weight since your trailers tongue weight exceeded 300 lbs.

With that done he said let me show you the one component that our dealership strongly recommends to anyone purchasing a pop-up. He walked over and picked up a part from the shelf. This is called a disagreement sway control. We mount one end of it to the ball mount and the other end to the tongue on the camper. You adjust the estimate of disagreement by turning the lever clockwise for more disagreement and counter clockwise for less friction. He explained that you turn it in 1/8" increments until you get it adjusted where you feel comfortable. This will not totally eliminate sway, but once the soldiery of sway are in appeal it will dampen the sway and help you operate it when you're towing your camper.

Well, he said, that about does it. For less than 10% of the price of the pop-up you can get all of the hitch work done and ensure that your family is safe when you go on a trip. At this point you're convinced that the sales someone has your best interest in mind and was not just trying to make more money.

You're all packed up for the first weekend getaway with your new pop-up. You make all of the pre-trip checks that the dealership explained to you and you're ready to go. You load the most precious cargo you have, your family, into your car and head out on a new venture. You take the on ramp to the interstate. You're cruising at the speed limit enjoying the music on the radio. Suddenly out of nowhere a exchange truck going twenty miles over the speed limit passes you as if I you're sitting still. You feel a small movement behind you. It was just sufficient to remind you that you're pulling the pop-up. You look at you're watch and tell the family that you should be at the campground in a integrate of hours.

Knowing how to react when a trailer begins to sway can be the contrast in the middle of your security and disaster.

Happy Camping,

Mark

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of Rv education 101

I hope you will get new knowledge about Brakes. Where you possibly can offer used in your day-to-day life. And most significantly, your reaction is Brakes. Read more.. Trailer Sway 101.

galvanic Trailer Brakes Rebuilding: A Story About How They Work and What Happens When They Don't

Brakes - galvanic Trailer Brakes Rebuilding: A Story About How They Work and What Happens When They Don't

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Do you know - galvanic Trailer Brakes Rebuilding: A Story About How They Work and What Happens When They Don't

This story begins when I offered to haul my friend's Aerostar van for him. He lives at the top of a very steep gravel hill.

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About Brakes

We drove the van on the trailer, strapped it down tight, set the weight distributing hitch and I headed down the hill. It was all going well until I hit the brakes.

Basically there were none. Only the fronts on the Suburban were locking. I pushed the big red button on my home made trailer brake controller giving them the full 13.7 volts but nothing. Well almost nothing. I was still going down way faster than I wanted to!

The trailer brakes should have locked up solid when the red button is pushed making all at least slide level - instead of the trailer trying to pass the Suburban. Talk about the cart before the horse!

The way the load was pushing colse to that Suburban, I was actually glad I had not tried to tow with my exiguous Jeep Cherokee.

Once that job was done I backed the trailer into the shop to take my first look at those trailer brakes. I have owned this trailer for nearly twenty five years and I have never seen inside the brake drums on it. I guess it was about time.

My inspection of the first drum showed me a exiguous about how galvanic trailer brakes work. There is an electromagnet that pulls against the inside of the drum. The conflict of the magnet against the drum moves one shoe that in turn moves the other shoe with a cam action.

Pretty simple. But I did not see whatever wrong. The shoes looked fine, the drum was fine except for some scoring where the magnet rubbed. I put power to the magnet and it seemed to pull Ok. But, the conflict of the magnet against the drum was obviously not adequate to work the shoes.

I could not figure out how a magnet could go bad, but that is what it seemed. Time for some Internet research.

I ultimately found a site that said magnet failure was coarse on galvanic trailer brakes. So I went shopping for trailer brake magnets. Most places wanted more for the magnet than I could buy the whole backing assembly for. To get one at a local parts store I would have to pay more than I could buy two backing assemblies for. And new magnets are included in the backing plate assemblies.

Just when I was about to give up and order new assemblies, I stumbled upon Auto security House. They could use some work on their web site, but they have great prices.

I found a pair of new drums on e bay and I was the only man who bid so I got both for the price of one. Then the wait for Danny - my Ups driver - to bring them to me. plainly the drums and magnets arrived on separate days so he got to visit with my dog Smash twice.

Upon closer inspection of the trailer brakes, I noticed that I still did not understand how they worked. Something just did not look right about the way the cams worked. It sure looked like they would be stronger in reverse. And this trailer has all the time been tough to back up when the brakes are working right.

A quick look at the Dexter Brakes web site confirmed my suspicions. The rear axle on my trailer was installed backwards.

I decided the bearings did not actually care if they were spinning backwards, so I elected to plainly swap the brake assemblies left to right.

Having them off made installing the magnets and routing the not so exiguous green wires somewhat easier. I found that some lubricant made getting them straight through the grommets a lot easier.

Dexter Magnets are identified by the wire color. The strict one for my 3500lb axles is the green wire. Nice they have not changed that in 25 years.

The magnets are held in by spring clips that are actually hard to get off. I used a small screwdriver and a pry bar and bent them slightly to get them off. The new magnets came with new clips anyway.

I loaded the new bearings with axle grease and installed the new brake drums. They are not Dexter brand but the fit just fine.

The wiring is was pretty uncomplicated to reconnect since there is no polarity on the magnets. Just connect one wire to the brake controller power lead and one to ground. Dexter recommends running a isolate ground wire but I just grounded it to the trailer frame like it had been done before.

Now my trailer has brakes again.

I hope you have new knowledge about Brakes. Where you'll be able to put to use in your everyday life. And most importantly, your reaction is Brakes. Read more.. galvanic Trailer Brakes Rebuilding: A Story About How They Work and What Happens When They Don't.

Buying An ATV Trailer

Hydraulic Brakes - Buying An ATV Trailer

Buying An ATV Trailer

Okay, you've bought the ATV, now it's time to get it home. Unfortunately, you can't ride your ATV down the street, so you're going to have to purchase an ATV trailer to get it there, and to your fun destinations.

Hydraulic Brakes

Buying an ATV trailer takes some homework, and there are some things that will need to be done before you decide on and purchase any particular trailer. One of the first things to do is make sure your vehicle is able to pull the extra weight of a trailer with one, two or three ATV's loaded onto it. Then, you'll need to attach a trailer hitch to your vehicle. Learning how to pull, turn and drive your trailer in various terrains and surfaces is a good idea as well.

Most people can purchase an ATV trailer at the lot where ATV's and campers and other outdoor vehicles are sold, or you may opt to find a trailer yard in your community. Make sure that any trailer you purchase, whether new or used, works correctly and has good tires. Make sure also that wheel bearings are in good working order and check them at least once a year to make sure they stay that way.

Next comes the ATV trailer lights. You may need someone to help you determine that they're working, as one person needs to be in the vehicle while the other watches the lights to make sure brake and turn signals and sidelights are working. Don't rely on hand signals when pulling anything behind your vehicle.

When pulling anything, especially ATV's, make sure your load is tied down. Many people use lashings that stretch or loosen during transportation, which makes for a dangerous situation waiting to happen. Purchase adequate tie-downs for the weight of your ATV and lash to the ATV trailer using a ratchet-style tie-down if possible. These types of tie-downs come with different weight bearing capacities. Better to get something stronger than you need than something that won't hold your load down.

Don't assume that tightening your straps is all you need to do between Point A and Point B. Many loads shift during transportation, and factors such as speed and wind may loosen your straps while driving. When you stop to fill up for gas, check your straps and tighten if necessary.

Did you remember to check everything? No, there's one more item to consider and that's your ATV trailer brakes. Check to make sure the hydraulic fluid reservoir is full and make sure the trailer brakes are working before you ever take your load out onto the open highways.

Enjoying your machines is easy when owners make sure that accessories and tools used for ATV's are well maintained and in good working order, and your ATV trailer is an important extension of your machines. Make sure you think, 'Safety First' before you take your ATV trailer out onto the road, and you'll ensure yourself a safe trip to your destination.